A mechanical watch is a small machine with dozens of moving parts running in a film of oil, and like any machine it needs that oil refreshing every so often. A full service is not a sign that something is wrong; it is routine maintenance, and on a good pre-owned watch it is the single best thing you can do to keep it running accurately for another decade. Knowing what a service involves, and what a fair price looks like, is also one of the best ways to judge whether a used watch has been looked after.
What actually happens during a service?
A watchmaker strips the movement down to its individual components, cleans every part in an ultrasonic bath, inspects for wear, replaces any tired parts (mainspring, worn gaskets, the odd jewel or pinion), re-oils each contact point with the correct lubricant, then reassembles, regulates the timing and tests it. On a water-resistant watch the seals are renewed and the case is pressure-tested. Done properly it is a full day’s skilled work, which is why it is not cheap and why a good watchmaker is worth keeping.
How much does a service cost in the UK?
As a rough guide in 2026, an independent watchmaker will service a straightforward three-hand automatic for somewhere around £250 to £450. A chronograph, with its extra complication, runs higher, often £450 to £700. Sending a watch back to the brand’s own service centre typically costs more again and can take a couple of months, though it comes with the maker’s guarantee and genuine parts. Prices climb from there for precious-metal cases, rare references or anything needing restoration. These are asking prices for the work, not fixed rates; always get a written estimate after the watchmaker has opened the case.
How often does a watch need servicing?
The old advice was every three to five years. Modern lubricants and tighter manufacturing have stretched that, and many contemporary movements are happy at five to seven years, some longer. The better guide is behaviour, not the calendar. If a watch is keeping good time, winding smoothly and staying dry inside, leave it be. If it starts running fast or slow, stopping early, or the second hand stutters, it is asking for attention. Moisture under the crystal means it needs a watchmaker sooner rather than later.
How does this affect buying pre-owned?
A pre-owned watch with recent service paperwork is worth more, and rightly so; someone has already spent the money and the movement is fresh. Where there is no history, factor a service into your budget as you would with a used car, and treat a suspiciously cheap example with caution, because a service can quietly cost more than the discount you thought you were getting. This is exactly why buying from a dealer who checks and guarantees each piece matters: with a pre-owned Omega or Cartier from us, the watch has been inspected and is running as it should before it is listed, so you are not inheriting someone else’s deferred bill.
A well-serviced mechanical watch is one of the few things you can buy that will still be working long after most of today’s gadgets are landfill. Look after the maintenance and it looks after itself. Explore our authenticated pre-owned watches and buy one that has already been checked over.